An Insider's Guide To Jordan
What to know before you go, what to do in Amman, and how to make the most of your trip.
Jordan is like a second home to me.
It’s where I got my first taste of post-student life. It’s where I landed when I got the big girl job, packed up, moved, and started over after grad school. I was shiny and new, with a fresh Masters degree in Arab Studies in hand, ready to conquer the world on my first tour as a US diplomat.
And in the 2+ years I worked in and lived in Jordan, I transformed.
I finally got to use my Arabic every day, and grew an ease with the language that means even when I don’t practice and I don’t get to use it the way I’d like, the base remains. Firmly cemented in a way my Spanish may never be.
I started Feed The Malik in Jordan, as an experiment actually. Fucking around on the internet was a way to practice skills I needed for my job as a diplomat and to get myself out of the “expat bubble", to encourage myself to go beyond the French restaurants and burger spots many of my colleagues were comfortable with. I would never be working for myself now if it wasn’t for the experiences I had in Jordan.
And while I had traveled, worked, lived, and studied in the Middle East before that time in Jordan, I had never spent so long in one country (other than the US). It became home and my community there changed me forever.
I hope you get to visit and love it as much as I do.
Here are some things to keep in mind for your trip.
1. Visas
U.S. citizens can get a visa on arrival at most ports of entry, except for the King Hussein Bridge. For folks arriving at Queen Alia International Airport, the visa-on-arrival line is well-marked, and card payments are accepted. If you're planning to visit Petra while in Jordan, look into getting a Jordan Pass, as it will save you money on your visa and entry fees to sites while in the country!
2. Money & Tipping
While many places in Jordan do take card payments, plan to have some cash on hand as you will need it in some places. Money exchange places are widely available in Jordan, or you can also plan to withdraw money from an ATM as long as your bank allows it. For tourists, a small tip for service workers is customary, about 10% at a restaurant for example.
3. Hotels
Jordan has a range of hotels, ranging from modest to luxury. I tend to lean towards luxury and some of my favorites are:
The W Hotel Amman
The Four Seasons Amman
The Intercontinental Amman
The Kempinski Dead Sea
At Petra, I’ll be honest none of the hotels are 10/10s for me, but I typically stay at Petra Guest House
Saraya Rum Camp in Wadi Rum
4. Getting Around
While in the capital city of Amman, you can easily get around via taxi or Uber.
Outside of the capital, you can get around by hiring a driver, booking a tour, or renting a car. And though the driving may be a bit more aggressive than you're used to, depending on where you're from, confident drivers should be fine driving in Jordan. I drove daily when I lived there without incident. And generally yes, you can drive in Jordan with a valid US license, though always check with your rental company before you go.
5. When To Visit
Summer in Jordan can get quite hot, so look to spring and fall (March to May and Sept. to Nov.) for your Jordan travel plans to try to beat the heat. Also, be sure to research when Ramadan, one of the most sacred times for Muslims and when many people fast, is happening so that you can plan around it. Many things are closed or will have altered schedules during Ramadan, including some restaurants and sites. Some travelers enjoy visiting during Ramadan, as they find the atmosphere and nighttime events exciting. Others find it very difficult, as Ramadan typically does require schedule adjustments. Get a peek at what to expect during Ramadan in Jordan.
6. Food
Jordan has absolutely amazing food! Many of the local staples are vegetarian, including hummus, foul (a stewed fava bean dish), falafel, mana'eesh (a local flatbread), and more. Jordan would be relatively easy to navigate as a vegan as well. Many of those vegetarian staples also don't have sneaky animal products in them, though always ask when ordering to be sure. And paid subs, don’t forget I’ve mapped my favorites in Jordan on a Google map available to all of you! To access go to Unfiltered & Fed and click “maps” in the menu.
7. Black Traveler Friendly!
I'd characterize Jordan as a very friendly destination for Black travelers. No place is guaranteed to be 100% free of anti-Black racism, which is truly a global phenomenon. But in my personal experience and after traveling the country with many friends who are much darker skinned than I am, people in Jordan are generally friendly and welcoming. This is not a place where I'd hesitate to tell Black travelers to come and explore.
8. Clothing & Appropriate Dress
What should women wear to dress appropriately in Jordan?
You'll see some folks in Jordan wearing whatever they want. However, I'd still recommend visitors, in particular women, dress modestly by covering their knees and shoulders. This will prevent travelers from attracting unwanted attention, and it also shows respect for local customs.
9. Safety
Jordan is a safe place for foreign travelers! Use general travel precautions like you would anywhere, but Jordan is generally very safe. Jordan ranks very high globally on Gallup's Law And Order Index and 10th globally for cities where people feel safe walking at night alone. For US travelers exploring internationally, always register your trip with the US Department of State's STEP program just to be safe. The US State Department Travel Advisory for Jordan is typically a Level 2: Exercise Caution, the same as it is for Spain and France.
When you go, don’t skip the capital.
When you talk about visiting Jordan, most people immediately think of Petra and Wadi Rum. Both experiences are absolute musts while in Jordan. However, Jordan has so much to offer beyond these famed sites.
Do not make the mistake of only visiting the capital city of Amman as a quick stopping point on your way to other destinations. Instead, I'd recommend spending at least a 2-3 days in the city to explore the array of food, history, and cultural sites Amman has to offer. More than a third of Jordan's population lives in the capital, so yes, there's a lot going on there!
Be sure to hit the staples.
I won't cover the below as much, as they are staples in Amman and appear in almost every travel guide/blog, but they’re highly recommended for a reason.
The Citadel - Explore this site in the center of the city with Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad ruins for incredible views and photos. It's also a great place to let kids run around and get some energy out.
Jabal AlWebdeih - This quaint older neighborhood is centrally located and a popular spot to wander around, get coffee, and explore murals and art. Rumi Cafe is a favorite stop in the neighborhood for tea and a snack, with a super cute seating area. There are also quite a few art galleries in the neighborhood to explore.
Shawerma Reem - Stop at this popular stand for hot and delicious shawarma, a popular street food consisting of roasted meat thinly sliced and served in a wrap.
Hashem's - This bustling restaurant in the old city is great, has a super affordable spread of local foods, and offers even better people-watching.
Al Quds - This falafel shop is a must-stop while exploring Rainbow Street.
Fahkreldin - This popular Levantine restaurant in a historic home is a long-standing favorite. Get a selection of appetizers and sides to taste the full range of the menu.
Bab AlYemen AlSaeed - Okay, this is not Levantine food, but this multi-level spot on Abdullah Ghosheh Street is a longtime favorite for Yemeni food.
Shams ElBalad - This is a favorite restaurant for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. The setting is beautiful, and the takes on local food are seasonal, fresh, and delicious.
But also make space for a special occasion meal and local goodies…
Amman has a plethora of fabulous fine dining spots to check out. One of my favorites is Alee, by Top Chef MENA winner chef Ali Ghazzawi. Named one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the Middle East and North Africa, Alee is a great spot to experience creative takes on local cuisine. The service is excellent, the dining room has a beautiful view of the city, the cocktails are well-balanced and fun, and the food truly standout. For reference, my dinner there with a group cost about 60 Jordanian dinars per person (about $85 USD), including tip, and we ordered multiple rounds of drinks plus enough food to truly stuff ourselves. See a bit of my dinner experience at Alee.
Underneath Alee in the same building, you'll find Urdon Shop, which sells locally produced goods perfect for gift and souvenir shopping. Urdon Shop stays open late, so should be available to shop before or after your dinner at Alee.
And beyond Alee, other standout restaurants to checkout are:
Sufra - A longtime favorite in a gorgeous villa and garden. Note Sufra does not serve alcohol.
Dara - Where Palestinian-Jordanian Chef Sara Aqel celebrates the region’s flavors.
Learn To Make Local Dishes At Beit Sitti
Beit Sitti's cooking school stands out for a few reasons. You'll learn a TON about local ingredients and flavors; a local woman hosts each cooking class and teaches you how to make her favorite dish, and the setting is sublime. Located in a historic family home in the old city, the patio and kitchen where Beit Sitti hosts cooking classes is the perfect place to spend an evening. After cooking, you'll feast on the meal you prepared together and can enjoy a nice glass of wine or two on the patio. This is also a great place to purchase spices and local foodie staples such as pomegranate molasses. Be sure to browse their offerings after your class.
Meander Rainbow Street
Rainbow Street is a highly recommended stop while in Amman. However, the popular street lined with shops and restaurants can be overwhelming for the uninitiated. To make the most of your Rainbow Street experience, begin at "First Circle" (Amman is organized around a series of traffic circles). From First Circle, begin to walk down Rainbow Street, which is best explored on foot. Meander as you like and stop along the way, but the following route offers up some of the best the old city has to offer.
First stop at Flour & Fire to try a manousheh, a local flatbread available with a variety of toppings. I highly recommend getting the za'atar and cheese blend, where a slightly salty melted cheese is balanced out by the blend of wild thyme and toasted sesame seeds found in za'atar. Then meander down to Al Quds Falafel for an outstanding Falafel sandwich on fresh bread. From there, continue down Rainbow Street, hitting Trinitae Soap House towards the bottom. Inside the gorgeous old villa that houses Trinitae, stock up on soaps, body products, and candles. After Trinitae, continue down Rainbow Street to find Jeld, a handmade leather goods store, Beit AlBawadi, a ceramics shop with incredible locally made products, and even a little spot for tea all in a row at the bottom as you walk towards the old city.
Take A Walking Tour!
While Amman is not the most walkable city, there are a couple of walking tours that offer an excellent chance to learn more about the city on foot.
For art lovers, check out local street art on a tour with Underground Amman. As you walk through the city, you'll learn about the history of street art, women's roles in the local art scene, the politics of water, and more. Take a peek at the tour I took with Underground Amman.
For foodies, check out the Eat Like A Local Tour hosted by 3J Gallery and Experiences. This tour will take you from Rainbow Street onto less trafficked streets to try local foods ranging from kanafeh, a dessert made with cheese and sweet syrup, to stuffed falafel! Check out this tour from my recent trip to Jordan!
You can also plan some outstanding day trips from Amman!
Visit The Jerash Archaeological Site
About an hour's drive from Amman, Jerash offers some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world and is a great stop for history buffs, photographers, or those looking for an easy hike/walk after the more punishing hikes at Petra. In fact, Jerash is my favorite site in all of Jordan; it even tops Petra in my mind. It's easier to access, less crowded, and in the spring and fall, surrounded by rolling green hillsides that you'd never expect in a desertous country like Jordan.
Visit Umm Qais
In the Northwestern corner of Jordan, 2 hours outside of Amman, lies Umm Qais, known for the ruins of the ancient Hellenistic city of Gadara and the remnants of an Ottoman-era village. This site is not only breathtaking, but it also offers a unique vantage point from which you can see three countries: Syria, Israel, and Palestine. I toured Umm Qais and took a cooking class hosted by a local family on a recent press trip to Jordan and it was incredible. That Umm Qais experience can be booked through community-based tourism operator Baraka Destinations.
Explore Mt. Nebo
While small, the stunning vista where Moses is believed to have seen the Promised Land provides a panorama view of Jericho and Jerusalem (on clear days). The site houses the Moses Memorial Church, a gorgeous church with stunning ancient mosaics that evoked audible gasps from every single visitor I took there. See more on Mt. Nebo and nearby Madaba in this video from my recent explorations of Jordan!
Jordan will surprise you if you let it. It’s not just Petra and Wadi Rum, though those are unmissable. For me, Jordan is more than a destination, it’s a place that shaped who I am and continues to pull me back. I hope this guide helps you move past the surface and experience the country in a way that feels rooted, connected, and full of joy. And when you go, tell me what surprised you most!
Thanks for sharing Anela! I learning more about Jordan. I am craving favas now 😆